Route 66, the historic highway that stretches from Chicago to Los Angeles, is often romanticized as a symbol of American freedom and adventure. However, the story of LGBTQ+ travelers along this iconic route is one that has remained largely untold. From the desert towns of Arizona to the vibrant streets of West Hollywood, queer individuals have left their mark on the Mother Road, creating communities and finding belonging in unexpected places.
The journey begins in the desert, far from the coastal image of California that many visitors expect. After a brief stop in Oatman, Arizona, the landscape shifts dramatically as one crosses the border into Needles. The temperature soars to 120 degrees and the absence of an ocean breeze is a stark reminder that this is still very much the desert. The Needles Regional Museum offers a glimpse into the past, showcasing artifacts from the El Garces Harvey House a historic restaurant and hotel that once served rail passengers along the Santa Fe Railway.
The Early Days of Queer Travelers
As the highway gained prominence in the 1920s, so did the stories of queer travelers who navigated its paths. Pulitzer Prize-winning author Willa Cather and her life partner, Edith Lewis were among the first documented LGBTQ+ travelers to journey through the Southwest. They often stayed at Harvey Houses like the one in Needles, where Lewis was frequently mistaken for Cather’s secretary—a role she played despite being unable to type. This deception allowed the couple to travel together in an era when their relationship was not widely accepted.
The Mojave Desert Heritage and Cultural Association (MDHCA) in Goffs preserves the history of the region, including the original alignment of Route 66 from 1926-31. While the archives do not yet contain documented LGBTQ+ history, museum director Laura Misajet believes that these stories may still be waiting to be discovered. The presence of a single Pride flag at the museum serves as a beacon of hope and a reminder of the ongoing search for queer history in the desert.
Finding Freedom in Southern California
The journey west leads to Pasadena, where the sense of freedom and belonging becomes palpable. Holding hands without a second thought, visitors can explore LGBTQ+-owned businesses and enjoy the vibrant queer community. The California African American Museum features an exhibit titled Free and Queer: Black Californian Roots of Gay Liberation highlighting the contributions of activists like Pauli Murray who challenged discrimination in employment and housing. This exhibit serves as a reminder that the freedom experienced in Southern California today is the result of decades of activism.
The June L. Mazer Lesbian Archives in West Hollywood preserves over 12,000 pieces of lesbian history, offering a glimpse into the past and the evolution of the queer community. Executive Director Kymn Goldstein emphasizes the importance of recognizing LGBTQ+ travelers in the narrative of Route 66, stating, “When people think about Americana, they don’t think about us. They think about the ’50s road trip, a family of four in a car, but we were in cars, traveling across the country.”
The Power of Visibility
Visibility is a crucial aspect of the LGBTQ+ movement, and the AIDS Monument in West Hollywood serves as a powerful reminder of this. Located less than a quarter-mile from historic Route 66, the monument ensures that the history of the AIDS crisis is never forgotten. Tony Valenzuela, executive director of the ONE Institute explains that the location was chosen for its visibility, emphasizing the importance of being seen in the fight for equality.
As travelers continue their journey along Route 66, they encounter a patchwork of laws and attitudes that reflect the diverse experiences of LGBTQ+ individuals. From the comfort of Grand Canyon National Park to the challenges faced in Amarillo, Texas, the road trip becomes a testament to the resilience and adaptability of the queer community. The contrast between these experiences highlights the multifaceted nature of Route 66, which has always contained multitudes.
The journey along Route 66 is not just a trip through history but a celebration of the queer individuals who have shaped the Mother Road. From the desert towns to the vibrant communities of Southern California, their stories are an integral part of the highway’s legacy. As the next generation continues to expand this narrative, the road becomes a little wider for those who follow, ensuring that the history of LGBTQ+ travelers is preserved and honored.
